the ride is arduous. Taking a thermos & boiled eggs helps break up the journey and quells my nerves.
fitting the ladder &:sorting out the ground tackle are priorities.
a skin thing?
As a surfer from my childhood years I escalated to surfing most days. If i wasn't surfing I was just going on or out of the surf, or at school or in latter yesrs work. Some school days would see me run home from the beach dripping wet, stuff cereal down & jog to school. At lunch break I would grab a bike & get a surf in. On my twenties i took up sailing. If I wasn't actually sailing I would be working on my boat getting things ready. I spent two enjoyable winters on the tropical north. In later life, I've mowed lawns for an income & continued to swim & sail when I can. As old surfers know, there's a toll on your skin. Some surfers I know have died or been treated for skin cancer, so it's a vocational hazard. Added to this, I have a genetic weakness towards skin cancer. My great grandmother passed in midlife & her daughter, my grandmother, had several skin grafts on her nose to manage skin cancer. Last month my younger brother Pete had a ...
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