bodysurfing toobs

Christened my new hand plane on a Pogos shore break.Managed a few tubes in pretty heavy conditions. I was hesistant about going out. 

Did I see Micky Adams in the lineup? Couldn't be sure and I think he half recognised me too. Funny getting old.

Today I re-realised how good being in the tube is. A second of cover looking out, then a savage rumble as you hoot and hollar with elation. 

Lyric in my head:
I got a new girl named Sheila,
She goes bat shit on tequila.

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