that surfing feeling, woohoo

I am similar vintage to the awarded author Tim Winton. . i enjoy his writing as its heavily influenced by his love of the sea: surfing, diving & fishing. Watching the tv movie based on his book Breathe is probably an all time peak tv viewing experience, & I genuinely avoid watching tv. 
It was a classic movie about growing up surfing, being mentored by an older surfer. My experiences growing up on the east coast mirrored  Tim's even though he was based on Australia's west coast.yentor Bill wasn't a pro, he was at the beach a lot, & made surfboards. I really cherish the series of days he & I, & my mate Marty, had surfing Winda Woppa the year I left school. 
Also surfing at my home break was the four times world champion, Mark Richards. When I first saw MR he was just a teenage surfer, not famous, other than his father owning the local surf shop. Soon after he started winning amateur comps, then just boomed into the fledgling pro tour. 
Anyway, I got pretty good at surfing & one of my choice boards was an MR twin. I had three back to back, & loved them. 
Anyway, work, motorbikes, girls, cars & sailing took me away from the beach. I just embraced these new experiences, & surfing became less frequent. 
Fast forward a few decades; I have a cataract, my little brother has a range of health problems & can no longer surf, I've lost mates due to health problems. And one thing Tim Winston said struck a chord; "I still go surfing not to catch a lot of waves, I just do it for the feeling". I reckon I need to get real,y mal under the house doesn't inspire, but I reckon this one, that I just bought, will!
Woohoo! 

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