surfing

As I took possession of my new surfboard today, the surfshop guy picked up on my stoked feeling & suggested o might have to wait to get some waves.
I'd tied two straps joining the Jesus handles in the Forrester and the board slithered on there like it was made for it. No fuss, no difficulty closing the hatch.
I was so stoked to see clean little waves aty old home break. But, I hadn't ridden a surfboard under 7 feet for absolute years. I'm talking decades. I tool the only car space available, right outside MRs house. Well he lived there years ago, and I imagined he was eyeing my new board with a grin. 
Plastic wrap off, new hard fins fastened into position and I'm off. Actually one fin was still lose, so back to the car. 
I felt so excited, because the board looked and felt fab u lous. The big test, wade through the shorey, jump aboard and yep she feels buoyant and paddles well. Winner winner!
Actually the rides were quite short and my first wave was unbelievably good. It felt stable enough and turned steadily. I'm on cloud nine. 
My second wave was a left and it went well too. By session's end I'd caught about six or eight waves, only one as good asy first two but I know the board can keep me stoked, its not a board for dummies. 
Next time, I lose the wetsuit pants cos I'm holding them responsible for cramping  my style by saving down over my thighs as I was getting up.
 
    That's my board

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