Mon 13 Oct: Molinaseca to Villafranca del Bierzo (31.2k)

I'm now sitting in the split level courtyard of a very quirky albergue Fenix de Familia. They have free access to coffee which shows a generosity of spirit. The dorm is on an attic with exposed beams, spiral stairs. I chose a bed raised above others, tucked up under the beams, very period.

Today's walk was a slog as I was fatigued after yesterday, and today was long at 31. Most of the pilgrims are 70 year olds, they hobble about and seem self absorbed on their aches & particular needs. One NZ woman tried her hardest to stay in front of me coming into the village & when I overshot the @  & came back she hogged reception on purpose. All types.
There was an exceptional highlight today, imagine unexpectedly coming around a corner & seeing a dinky die ancient fortress, with moat,  towering above you, extending up the hill, around the hill etc. for hundreds of metres. Absolutely stunning, mind altering stuff. Turrets, archers slots, ramparts, the real deal, & of massive scale. I could only marvel at the manhours and about of stone used. Its not nearly comprehensible.
There was a second highlight too. At a typical village I could not find a market but I did find a bakery. When I asked for one of the two baguettes the tender went off "no, no". I though she said it was day old, I said I don't mind but this echoed the previous rant. I ordered a choc brownie ... and she have me two! They moist to the point of dripping, but very nice. I could not tell if they were faulty or not, but it gave me a good hit. 
Later in the day we had wonderful rural views, vineyards giving way to beautiful ragged mountains, but I was too fatigued to settle & ogle too long. 

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